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Crossings
- Older in Altai Bike Expedition, 2006: Strangers - Newer in Altai Bike Expedition, 2006: By a Hair
At 2pm today, (which is 19 hours ago in western Xinjiang Province, China), Jon, Noey, and their Chinese guide came to a river crossing and they just had to stop. Water, shade, firewood, and beauty. They had been pedaling hard for four days through endless hot desert on flat paved roads. Twenty to forty pounds of watermelon was their source of daily food and water. Making a long u-turn, they are now back in the Altai Mtns.
Their guide does not speak English, they have seen no Europeans, nor Americans, not a single non native since stepping off the plane in Almaty, Kazakhstan 5 weeks ago. The American dollar has no value here, not even a black market to exchange currency... they are truely in a culture isolated from the frenzy of globalization. They met a 20 year old Chinese filmmaker who was very hungry. In exchange for some meals, he took them to a native Kazakh rodeo festival. For one of the many sports, men and women in bridal dress raced on horses with the object being for the woman to catch up to a man and beat him with her whip.
Here in China, Jon saw original Kazakh embroidery that he recognized from his travels in Mongolia. Much more true nomadic Kazakh culture remains in Xinjaing Province than they saw in Kazakhstan itself. There are lots and lots of camels along with horses, goats, sheep, and cows. The land is arid, overgrazed and very populated.
Although it is still arid, they are grateful to be back in the mountains at 4,ooo feet with rivers and trees. Tomorrow's climb to 6,ooo ft will take them into a landscape of lakes.
Noey and her father Jon have had to choose to laugh and go along with the daily disasters. If they get a few meals, some sleep and some miles of riding in, it is considered a good day. This journey has been difficult, but with the unique landscape and culture, it is a spectacular experience for a father and daughter to share.
Dated: 08/02/2006
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