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By a Hair
- Older in Altai Bike Expedition, 2006: Crossings - Newer in Altai Bike Expedition, 2006: Altai City
A week ago, on the evening of the climb to 6,000 ft in the Altai Mountains, ominous rumbles could be heard above camp. Since there had been thunderstorms earlier, Jon, Noey and Wang Jein rushed to get things to higher ground. Noey was in the tent handing out visas, cameras, sleeping bags,diaries, maps and satellite phone. As she was about to scramble from the tent, her hair got caught in the zipper. The flash flood was upon them. Boulders roared through and that moment of being caught nearly brought a devastating tragedy. Trash and multiple trails gave evidence that their campsite had been occupied many times before, but that evening, three lives and all important items were barely pulled to safety.
Craig Childs writes, "There are two easy ways to die in the desert: thirst and drowning."
Another shock came when they arrived at Kanas Lake. Jon counted 75 tour buses in one spot. Thousands and more Chinese tourists took in the beauty (and the 3 bicycle travelers) with their cell phones and video cameras. Over the firm objection of their guide Wang Jein; Jon and Noey planned to escape from being run over by the herds of tour buses by heading off across country using the GPS and compass as their guide. Wang Jein eventually followed. They found motorbike, goat, and herder trails, some too technical for the bobs and others a joy to ride. When they came to a small town they again said no! to asphalt and took off along the front range at 4,500 feet on roads and trails not on the map. In this arid country they were able to find springs, surprising Wang Jein, who had no faith in the GPS and compass, when yes, they did come to a river in 3km.
Now they are above a river valley, looking down on 16 grazing camels and farmers cutting hay. According to the GPS and compass, they will drop elevation, cross 2 more ridges and within a day arrive at the large modern city of Altai.
Dated: 08/09/2006
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